PDF Ebook Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table, by Suzanne Goin Teri Gelber
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Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table, by Suzanne Goin Teri Gelber
PDF Ebook Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table, by Suzanne Goin Teri Gelber
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Amazon.com Review
Suzanne Goins is the chef-owner of Lucques, an acclaimed Los Angeles restaurant noted for its Sunday meal service. Sunday Suppers at Luques presents 132 recipes from the restaurant, arranged by seasonal menus and thus by market availability, with the likes of Hawaiian Snapper with Green Rice and Cucumbers in Crème Fraîche; Saffron Chicken with Parmesan Pudding, Spring Onions and Sugar Snap Peas; Bistecca California with Peperonata, Baked Ricotta, and Lemon; and Young Onion Tart with Cantal, Applewood-Somked Bacon, and Herb Salad. Home cooks should find these deft, light-handed creations immediately attractive, if not always readily reproducible, as many call for special ingredients like the aforementioned snapper, Kaboca squash, and roncal, a Spanish sheep’s milk cheese, among many others. Reasonable alternatives aren't always suggested. Though the dishes themselves aren't difficult to make, reproducing whole menus, or even multiple dishes within them, will require a kitchen workout. These things said, many cooks will want to try making the more approachable dishes apart from their "trimmings," not to mention such desserts as Warm Crèpes with Lemon Zest and Hazelnut Brown Butter, and Jessica's Favorite Meyer Lemon Tart with a Layer of Chocolate. With color photos, the book is also lovely to pore through. --Arthur Boehm
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From Publishers Weekly
At Lucques, one of Goin's two Los Angeles restaurants, the Chez Panisse alumna cooks special Sunday fixed-price menus. Whiling away a wintery Sunday evening over Beets and Tangerines with Mint and Orange-Flower Water; Australian Barramundi with Winter Vegetables Bagna Cauda and Toasted Breadcrumbs; or Herb-Roasted Rack of Lamb with Flageolet Gratin, Roasted Radicchio, and Tapenade; and a Gâteau Basque with Armagnac Prunes sounds lovely. Preparing it, though, sounds like a hard day's work, and the organization of recipes in seasonal menus rather than grouped by appetizer, entrée, etc., leaves readers with little flexibility. Goin's recipes for hearty, vegetable-heavy, Mediterranean-style dishes such as an appetizer of Ragoût of Morels with Crème Fraîche, Soft Herbs, and Toasted Brioche; and First-of-the-Season Succotash Salad with fresh lima beans and watercress are clearly written. But most dishes are all-day affairs: Roman Cherry Tart with Almond Crust and Almond Ice Cream incorporates several components and follows on the heels of either Veal Osso Buco with Saffron Risotto, English Peas, and Pea Shoots, or Halibut with Fingerlings, Fava Beans, Meyer Lemon, and Savory Crème Fraîche. Goin does say, "Feel free to mix and match," but she seems to have missed Sunday's "day of rest" concept. 75 full-color photos. (Dec. 1) Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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Product details
Hardcover: 416 pages
Publisher: Knopf; 1st edition (November 8, 2005)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 1400042151
ISBN-13: 978-1400042159
Product Dimensions:
8.4 x 1.1 x 9.5 inches
Shipping Weight: 2.6 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.6 out of 5 stars
74 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#167,172 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
As an Angeleno who is lucky enough to have partaken of many meals at Lucques, including the amazing Sunday Suppers, I was thrilled to add this cookbook to my collection. Goins has one of the most impeccable palates in LA, and to be able to make some of her dishes in my own kitchen has been a real treat.First of all, I would recommend this book for the writing alone. The introduction is informative and lovely, and the sections on produce, pantry and techniques get you set up for the cooking experience that is to come. The recipes are arranged by season which, even in "seasonless" southern California, makes a big difference, and Goins notes about each season's offerings are lessons unto themselves. In general, the recipes are clearly explained but do require more than a novice's experience in the kitchen.Most of the recipes have notes that let you know what is essential, what substitutions can be made and what can be made ahead. Not all of the ingredients are common or even readily available, but that shouldn't stop anyone from trying the recipes that have easy-to-get ingredients.Since I've never make every single recipe in any cookbook I have, I consider a book a winner when there are more than a dozen that I will make over and over again. Here is my experience with some of the recipes that have had or definitely will have repeat performances in my house:-- Herb-Roasted Pork Loin with Haricot Verts, Spring Onions and Mustard Breadcrumbs - this may be the single most delicious thing I have ever cooked at home. It is insanely good. Substituting another type of roast will not yield the same result as the specified center cut. A high-quality nonstick pan (one that can stand up to high heat) is the way to go when browning the pork. I have never achieved the proper results in a regular pan. The pan sauce is so, so good - but it should be noted that the chicken stock called for is not in the ingredients list.-- Braised Short Ribs with Potato Purée, Swiss Chard and Horseradish Cream - I'm pretty sure Goins is one of the chefs who put short ribs on the culinary map. These are a favorite at the restaurant. Moutherwateringly good. I didn't make the potatoes, but with two varieties of potatoes, butter and cream, how bad can they be?-- Devil's Chicken Thighs - Loved them.-- Bistecca California with Peperonata, Baked Ricotta and Lemon - The try-tip cut of beef is now, thankfully, widely available outside of California. I have found it in supermarkets back east, and most butchers are now familiar with it. The flavors of everything together are Italy by way of California in your mouth.-- Olive Oil Cake with Créme Fraiche and Candied Tangerines - Olive oil cake? Oh, yes! A heavier crumb than the average cake, but moist and delicious.-- Ode to Hadley's Date Shake with Candied Walnut Wedge - Anyone who has ever sipped a date shake out in the desert, especially at Hadley's, surely has dreams of this shake. I didn't make the accompanying Walnut Wedge, although I most likely will make it on another occasion, because a date shake is a lily that doesn't need gilding. Suffice it to say that visions of swaying date palms danced in my head for as long as the shake lasted. Which wasn't long.
There is a wealth of great recipes in this beautifully-presented book. And, true to the author's reputation as one of Alice Waters' protegees, the recipes are detailed, creative, and intelligently arranged into satisfying seasonal menus of 3 and 4 courses. But, for a book that purports to revere the now-enshrined principles of seasonality and local availabilty, it sure relies heavily upon ingredients that require mail-ordering. Lucques is in Los Angeles, where you can buy just about anything, and where the farms have long growing seasons. But for most of the country, few of these menus can be prepared without ordering ahead. But the menus are things of beauty. Here's one to give you an idea: a salad of roasted beets with tangerines, mint, and orange water followed by sea bass and winter-vegetable bagna cauda structured like the Provencal grand aioli; then herb-encrusted rack of lamb with flageolets, roasted radicchio and tapenade; all leading up to an inventive gateau basque [sic] with armagnac prunes. Here you see a snapshot of the spirit of this book: recipes are loosely based upon Italian and French regional specialties, modified to commercial kitchen art-cuisine capabilities, and refreshed to the standards of a modern-American rock-star restaurant. That the food is so casually plated [with great care and attention that everything look JUST SO, like little English gardens of colorful ingredients] should not for a moment mislead you into believing that this is home cooking. Sunday suppers they may be, but for Suzanne Goin Sunday is not the day of rest.Another menu starts with "Richard Olney's Figs and Prosciutto with Melon". I read this recipe, suddenly felt a bit uneasy, and then slammed on the brakes. The mention of that great master of menu-planning made me realize what's missing from this menu-driven cookbook: wine. It is barely mentioned here and there, and never, that I have found, is there a wine-pairing recommendation. I consider this to be a monstrous oversight for a few reasons: coursing meals as Ms Goin suggests all but requires 3 or 4 wines per meal, progressing through the courses and accompanying the food; the uniqueness of the ingredients and the way they're combined [often taking inspiration from several regional food traditions per dish] makes wine-pairing very challenging; and the coursing tends to be very much in the tradition of haute cuisine, with all of the wine heiratics and rigors that implies. Why not insert a simple side-bar of wine pairings with each menu? I am very curious to know what Lucques' sommelier's recommendations would be for wine to accompany that beet salad mentioned above, for example. Or for this puzzler: grilled pancetta-wrapped trout with verjus, crushed grapes, and fennel gratin? Though I am no great fan of Patricia Wells' Provencal cookbook, her brief, spot-on wine suggestions are a great help and inspiration, and the addition of something similar to this book would be very welcome indeed.If you know wine and are undaunted by 12-hour Sundays in the kitchen, and if you have good equipment, and if you live in a big city and have a big food budget, and if you have a painter's eye for faux-casual still-life platings, do not hesitate to buy this excellent and beautiful cookbook. But please join with me in encouraging the author to get the sommelier to the table for the second edition.
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